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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2010, 03:55 PM
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Good additions, Upstate! Kinda funny that this thread is getting way more attention now than it did 8 months ago when Rob posted it LOL. Thanks for the nice resurrection, Yamahamama...you picked a good one.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2010, 03:59 PM
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8 months ago it was 10 freaking degrees out, nobody cared. Now that it is in the upper 90s, overheating is an issue.
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:55 PM
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A friend of ours has the same model of Grizzly (2002) only his is Camo. He was out riding with us this weekend and I heard him talking about how he needed to not ride so slow (we were trying to keep the dust to a minimum as we rode down the road). He said he had problems with overheating.

That's one of the main reasons that my hubby was wondering about what kind of antifreeze to use.

Just a bit of history ....

When we changed the oil on the Grizzly last week, it was God-awful black and both of us were appalled (we change the oil on our Arctic Cats about every other month and rarely is it even the least bit dirty) and decided then that we really needed to do a complete checkup and change out of fluids. The Grizzly belonged to the fella mentioned above's father and he wrecked it a few years ago. Ran it into a tree and messed up the bumper and handle bars, but was most upset because his daughter was riding with him and she broke her hip. He took it back to the other son's house and they've basically just run it around on the farm for the pasts few years. The other son recently bought a brand new Rzr and sold the Grizzly to us to make room for his new toy.

I'm glad I posted on this subject and that it's been brought back to the top. Overheating can't be a good thing and with our Texas heat here, we have to be proactive on things like this. We only get 3 days of winter around here.
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:25 PM
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Since there was damage to the bike originally - I would make sure the fan is operating properly.

next I would pressure wash the radiator (preferably from the back twords the front to remove
any caked up mud, dirt, ect. that could cause an overheating problem.

Next - I would suggest adding some Water Wetter additive to the coolant to help keep the bike running as cool as possible.
If all this doesn't help than I would go deeper and inspect the waterpump for proper operation..........

Good Luck and Welcome to the GR Forum!
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:35 PM
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Excellent suggestions!! When hubby gets home from work I'll have him read this whole thread.

We used to ride Yamahas over 25 years ago when it was 3 wheelers and dirt bikes. Then came kids.... need I say more....

When we got back to the mud, once those kids started having kids of their own, our first 4 wheeler was a 2001 Arctic Cat 300. When hubby bought his 2006 Arctic Cat 650 H1, I got handed down the 300. I've loved that wheeler and babied it. Only thing I didn't like was having to shift gears manually. Otherwise, it would climb a tree in a heartbeat. When he told me about the Grizzly and all the cool features it had, automatic.... pushbutton 4 wheel drive, etc.... I didn't even have to see it to know I'd love it.

After riding it this past weekend, I know I am going to enjoy it a whole lot. Hubby has already mentioned that he sees much more confidence in my riding on the Grizzly. The fact that it's got a higher center and a wider ride makes a whole lot of difference in my riding world. :-)

Thank you all for such a warm welcome. I appreciate you guys being here and know I'll be picking your brains. I'm really glad I found this place and am so glad that if I have questions I can come here to get good answers.
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:47 PM
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I think Jack gave you excellent suggestions for the cooling issue. Also, does the Grizzly have the heat kit installed? There are several components to this kit but the two biggies are a foam rubber insulation mat glued to the bottom of the gas tank (easily seen if you remove the tank cover plastic) and the "sharks gills" side panels. If either or both of these items is missing, it is worth getting them. The panels can be gotten new or from eBay (sometimes there available...sometimes you have to watch for a while). The insulation mat can either be purchased with a used gas tank or gotten new.

Since you don't know the complete history of this bike (you were already surprised by the oil), I'd do a careful once-over on the whole quad. Here are some suggested things to check / look for:
Any overly rusted pieces
Anything loose
Missing bolts, straps, and clamps
Check all the CV boots, ball joint boots and tie-rod boots. Also do some jerking on all of those to make sure they are not worn out or improperly tightened (the tie rod ends are known to get loose...best to pull the cotter pin, and verify torque then replace pin)
Oil leaks around all seals (front diff axle and drive shaft seals, rear drive axles and drive shaft, the seals where the middle drive shaft (inside the engine) comes out of the front and rear of the engine to connect with the drive shafts, seal on the shaft under the pull starter (just remove plastic cover then the pull starter / cover...you will probably find that needs cleaning inside as well)

Also, some maintenance items commonly overlooked:
Grease the front drive shaft. The U-joints need to be greased and the splined connectors also need grease. If you jack the front of the quad up, you can then remove the bolts that hold the front differential in place...pull the diff up a little and away from the engine. This should allow you to get the drive shaft out. Once out, it is a LOT easier to get to the zerk fittings on the U-joints and you can clean and grease the splined ends of the shaft as well as the connectors on the diff and engine that they mate with.
Same thing on the rear drive shaft...same procedure just no U-joints.
The OEM air filter sux! If it still has it, consider an upgrade...check my garage for a custom adapter to use a really nice clamp-on K&N that solves the possible leaking seal issue with the OEM design.
Clean & disconnect (in that order) every electrical connection you can find and, before putting it back together, put a glob of dielectric grease on every connection and also on the rubber seal.
Check the wheel bearings for looseness.
CVT cleaning and re-greasing...people are really bad about not doing this one and it's a good idea to verify everything in your CVT is OK (like the belt). Speaking of which, I strongly suggest using only genuine Yamaha belts.

Gotta make the drive to the casa but, if I think of anything else (likely), I'll post it up.

You got yourself an excellent machine...I love the hell out of my '02 660 and I am sure you will love yours too. Congrats on a great quad!
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mine: '02 660 now in custom Hammered Copper paint
Mods: Custom air box mod for big-o' clamp-on K&N, Dial-A-Jet, 26" BH 2.0's on ITP SS 106's, SuperTrapp IDSX exhaust, Maier fender flares, black Ricochet skids. Remote res. Works A-T Steelers shocks on all 4.
Hers: '04 660 LE (Ruby red)
Mods: same A/F mod, 1.5" billet spacers with BH 2.0's on stock wheels, Yami aluminum skids.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2010, 10:11 PM
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I also have an 02 660 and the key is keeping the radiator cleaned. They don't make it easy to do. It is very easy to miss the corners of the radiator or even not get all the mud and dust out from inside the fins. You don't need high pressure and if you use it, make sure you don't bend the fins closed.

Some checks you may want to do.
- Flush the radiator with a garden hose like Jack said from the back to the front, then from the front to the back.
- Flush it again.
- Flush it again. (I've spent over 2 hours cleaning my radiator and came back the next day to give it one last flush and still got brown water from it.
-If you got bent fins, try to straighten them out. Yamaha did a great job of sizing the radiator so it barely provides sufficient cooling.

Some "low" cost options to help would be like Jack said adding Water Wetter or replacing the coolant with Engine Ice. Another would be to add an in-line fin cooler.

If money isn't a problem two other solutions could be to relocate the radiator to on top the front rack like a lot of swamp buggies have it or replace the stock radiator with a High Lifter Triple Flow radiator.

All of these options are nice, but none will work if you don't keep the radiator clean. If you don't ride mud, but ride dusty trials, the dust will slowly build up in the radiator too.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2010, 10:20 PM
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Good stuff from UpstateNYGrizz...it is a bit tedious, even if you remove the front plastic (fenders) but it's often overlooked or underdone.

Knew I would think of something else...
Check all of the breather lines/tubes for being there, being connected properly, not being kinked, and not having holes/cuts. There are breather tubes on the front differential and rear drive (they tie together near the rear of the gas tank with a "T" connector), one from the radiator fan (also end near the back of the tank), and a big one on the crankcase that runs up to a connector on the horn of the air filter box cover.

EDIT: Aha...another thing; on the front air intake plenum (tube) for the CVT, there is a small vinyl "cup" that clamps on to a nib at the bottom of the plenum...about 2/3 of the way to the CVT. Make sure it is there, in good condition, tight, and has its little spring clamp. If it gone or leaky, you will get water in your CVT in relatively shallow water crossings. There is also a very similar "cup" on the bottom of the air box near the rear...check it too.
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Mine: '02 660 now in custom Hammered Copper paint
Mods: Custom air box mod for big-o' clamp-on K&N, Dial-A-Jet, 26" BH 2.0's on ITP SS 106's, SuperTrapp IDSX exhaust, Maier fender flares, black Ricochet skids. Remote res. Works A-T Steelers shocks on all 4.
Hers: '04 660 LE (Ruby red)
Mods: same A/F mod, 1.5" billet spacers with BH 2.0's on stock wheels, Yami aluminum skids.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 10:38 AM
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I apologize for the delay in responding here. I'd like to thank all of you that chimed in with help on the coolant issues on my Grizzly, and for your suggestions on things to check out. We're checking them off one at a time.

We got the coolant flushed out and replaced it and added the Water Wetter (?) stuff. Rode it this past weekend and it stayed much cooler than the previous weekend. It does seem to ride hotter than the Arctic Cat 300 that I have ridden for the past 2 years, but I've been told that the motor is twice the size and positioned differently. Just means longer shorts for me!

We've noticed that the muffler is quite noisy and hubby is wondering if it can be repacked to minimize the noise.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:51 AM
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Stock muffler noisy?
Hmmm...I am like 99.99999% sure that the stock muffler has mechanical baffles and no packing. Does it have the original spark arrestor tip?

EDIT: Check the first and third pics in my garage to see what the stock muffler and tip look like.
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Mine: '02 660 now in custom Hammered Copper paint
Mods: Custom air box mod for big-o' clamp-on K&N, Dial-A-Jet, 26" BH 2.0's on ITP SS 106's, SuperTrapp IDSX exhaust, Maier fender flares, black Ricochet skids. Remote res. Works A-T Steelers shocks on all 4.
Hers: '04 660 LE (Ruby red)
Mods: same A/F mod, 1.5" billet spacers with BH 2.0's on stock wheels, Yami aluminum skids.
MY GARAGE

That which doesn't kill you, leaves scars to remind you not to do it again
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