Changed sheave on the Rhino 450! - Grizzly Riders - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum

Official Clutch Forum This is the official forum for Grizzly Clutch information.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
Go Big or Go Home!!
Member
 
Mud-and-Guts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Celina TN
Posts: 51
Thanks: 0
Thanked 54 Times in 17 Posts
Changed sheave on the Rhino 450!

Shortly after getting my bike I ordered the whiterhino cut sheave with 12 gram rollers and was really impressed but keep my stock sheave just in case. After seeing everyone with such good luck with James sheaves and the greaseless weights I decided it was time for a change. With over 2000 miles on my whiterhino cut I sent James my stock sheave and told him I wanted everything I needed with his cut, a new cam plate, and the 12 gram greaseless sliders. I got out today and did a few runs before changing the sheave's and then a few after to see just how they compared in a drag race setup and the JBS sheave came out on top every-time. There wasn't a huge difference but it was noticeable.. The big gain was in performance just off idle, the rhino has a lot more wheel spin than it did with the whiterhino cut sheave and 12 gram rollers, it actually feels like the belt is slipping just off idle because the rpms jump so fast.

I found two holes in the belt cover due to the belt riding so high in the secondary with the old sheave. After finding this I expected the JBS sheave to lag behind on take off but found just the opposite the JBS sheave actually pulls better, even has more wheel spin. You can feel a big difference down low on the trails and climbing hills but on level ground in the video you can't see it, in the video on the road there isn't much difference in speed gain down low but the JBS sheave pulls better on top. I wish I had gotten some video on an uphill grade..

The JBS sheave looks to be cut smoother and a little deeper on the bottom and not cut at all on the outer edge like the old sheave was. I suppose the rough cutting on the outer edge was what caused the shift/lag at 30-32 and it also allowed the weights to sling out further/harder causing less acceleration from 32+. With more power I assume this cutting would allow a faster accel but on my bike just not enough power to pull it.

The shading sucks in my video but maybe it will give you an idea..


www.mudandgutsoffroad.org
Mud-and-Guts is offline  
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Mud-and-Guts For This Useful Post:
liquid1 (01-01-2012), Sasquatch (01-01-2012), TheGrizz (01-01-2012)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 11:55 AM
Member
 
liquid1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: lake norman nc
Posts: 2,019
Thanks: 689
Thanked 788 Times in 466 Posts
cool ..you run your 450 hard..

Work hard to play hard.
02 520 EXC KTM Woods weapon
2002 NCHSA 4 stroke B 6th place State Championship
contour 1080hd
1998 300 honda 4x4 fourtrax give to my daughter
like new 07 450 red grizzly showroom stock
25" 2.0 bighorns
Full skids
Dyna Jet kit ..Mikuni 135 main, 22.5 mikuni pilot
UNI filter/Stock box, Modified stock exhaust
custom made shovel head exhaust tip
Rt 25 warn winch
http://www.youtube.com/user/liquidktm?feature=mhee
liquid1 is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 02:50 PM
CTD Out!
Site Supporter
 
Butch450's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 7,584
Thanks: 3,169
Thanked 3,018 Times in 1,413 Posts
You left out a lot of info. I will assume you mean you went with 12 gram grease-less rollers and grease-less sliders. Did you happen to do anything to your old sheave prior to testing against the new one? After 2000 miles the old sheave would be smoothed out on the face so did you scuff it back up so it would at least grab comparable to the new one? Also did you use the new rollers and sliders on both sheaves for the test? The original rollers might be a little worn on the covers so once again, not the same. What is the cost of both setups? What is exactly machined on both, was it the sheave face or the roller ramps and hub? Did you use a shim at all?

There are quite a few different companies producing machined sheaves for the rhinos and grizzlies and each one of them does their machining a little different to produce almost the same results. A few of these companies do not machine the face of the sheave but inside the roller ramps and hub. I have read on a few different Rhino Forums that guys with the rhino 450s have gained on average 4 - 6mph top end with a few that are machined like this, and with them designed this way you add a shim for all your low end torque gain, instead of machining the face to allow the belt to travel lower. The video from what I could see looked like the difference was 1 mph both in top speed and at shift points. That could just be because you old sheave is...well old lol.




Last edited by Butch450; 01-01-2012 at 03:03 PM.
Butch450 is offline  
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
Go Big or Go Home!!
Member
 
Mud-and-Guts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Celina TN
Posts: 51
Thanks: 0
Thanked 54 Times in 17 Posts
It has been a couple hundred miles since I cleaned everything and installed a new belt, I did not clean everything prior to the video. and yes I went from 12 greased rollers (+2 gram covers) to 12 gram greaseless so the lighter weights could be most of my gain.

The Whiterhino cut uses a shim, the JBS cut does not.
The white rhino sheave is cut on the outer radous which allows the weights to sling out further, the JBS does not.
The JBS sheave is cut a little smoother and deeper where the rollers set,

I was not trying to do a real comparison just trying to show my results going from old sheave with greased weights to new sheave with greaseless, I have been wanting to try the greaseless weights for a while and felt it would be best to go with a fresh sheave at the same time. I have a new set of 10gram roller weights I may try in the whiterhino cut sheave later to see how it does. I also plan on doing a little work on the whiterhino cut to see if I can smooth out the roller ramps so it does not have the shift/stall at 30-32. I am also thinking about trying the JBS cut with the shim to see how it does and the whiterhino cut without. I'll get a more detailed write up later on after I get sometime on the new setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Butch450 View Post
You left out a lot of info. I will assume you mean you went with 12 gram grease-less rollers and grease-less sliders. Did you happen to do anything to your old sheave prior to testing against the new one? After 2000 miles the old sheave would be smoothed out on the face so did you scuff it back up so it would at least grab comparable to the new one? Also did you use the new rollers and sliders on both sheaves for the test? The original rollers might be a little worn on the covers so once again, not the same. What is the cost of both setups? What is exactly machined on both, was it the sheave face or the roller ramps and hub? Did you use a shim at all?

There are quite a few different companies producing machined sheaves for the rhinos and grizzlies and each one of them does their machining a little different to produce almost the same results. A few of these companies do not machine the face of the sheave but inside the roller ramps and hub. I have read on a few different Rhino Forums that guys with the rhino 450s have gained on average 4 - 6mph top end with a few that are machined like this, and with them designed this way you add a shim for all your low end torque gain, instead of machining the face to allow the belt to travel lower. The video from what I could see looked like the difference was 1 mph both in top speed and at shift points. That could just be because you old sheave is...well old lol.

www.mudandgutsoffroad.org
Mud-and-Guts is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
450, changed, rhino, sheave

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Grizzly Riders - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome