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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 12:05 AM
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Default 660 Grizzly Fuel Leak

I just bought a used 660 grizzly, looked it over and took it for a ride didn't see anything out of the ordinary. I took it for a ride tonight and when I got back to my house and pulled in the garage something was dumping fuel everywhere.

I've taken a photo of the line dumping fuel. Can anybody tell me where it goes or what I need to do. In the photo it's the larger line on the left hand side. The other hose was attached to the running board with a zip tie so I'm assuming it's a vent line or something.

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 12:26 AM
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Default The evel one

Most likely the needle and/or seat has failed and is allowing a constant flow of fuel into the fuel bowl. They're notorious for failing and Yamaha has updated the part. The updated needle/seat has been reported to fail as well. I replaced mine and so far so good.
Needle/seat failures usually contaminate the engine oil. When mine failed it filled the airbox/exhaust/crankcase. That was a moment for damn sure. I changed my oil and ran it for a few minutes and changed it and the filter again. You can't be too critical when it comes to engine oil and you damn sure don't want fuel mixed with it..
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Old 09-17-2010, 02:34 AM
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Cleans out the sludge really well, though LOL. X2 on what El Dee said, that line is designed to vent overflow from the carb bowl and, under normal circumstances, will get just minute amount of fuel randomly sloshed into it. I'd go ahead and get a complete rebuild kit...it is likely that it has been a while since that carb has been cleaned and the o-rings and gaskets are prob not worth re-using. Get a kit, take it apart fully, and do a good cleaning...the grizz will love you for it.
Be aware that the screws that hold the bowl on and those on the other side that hold on the slider diaphragm are made of a special steel that contains 35% lead...OK, really their just really soft steel and you will almost certainly bugger them getting them off. If you have access to a source of stainless metric hardware, get some socket-head stainless replacements. If no stainless available, just get plain steel socket-head screws and give them a blast of paint before installing.

If you need any guidance, don't hesitate to ask.
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Old 09-17-2010, 07:07 PM
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Make sure and look at the new seat and needle. They should be stainless steel. I have installed about 8 sets so far and no problems yet. Got another one in the works right now. Waiting for them to get here to install. You don't list the year but a agree with DizGrizz and get the whole rebuild kit. Just make sure of the stainless steel.

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Last edited by BluMtn; 09-18-2010 at 01:09 PM. Reason: bad spelling
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:15 PM
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FYI the vent on the right is for the water pump. If the seal fails the water will drip/flow out that hose instead of going into the engine and engine oil.
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:05 PM
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I took the carb off and cleaned out the trash. There was a lot of trash between the needle and seat keeping it from sealing. I also drained the fuel tank hoping to get the trash out of the tank. Well I took the grizzly on a long ride yesterday, about 9.5 hours up one side of a mountain and back down the other side.... and yep it's leaking out of the overflow again.

I have a couple questions now.

#1 what's the best way to get the screws out, 3 of them are too stripped for me to get back out now.

#2 what size are the screws and what thread pattern, I want to go buy some replacements, also what's a good place to buy screws like that?
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:23 PM
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To get the screws out use a dremel tool with cut off wheel and carefully make slots across the heads of the screws and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Replace with stainless steel metric allen head screws available at NAPA, True Value, or ACE hardware stores. Use anti-sieze on the screws when you install them. Replace the needle & seat and check that the float level is correct.
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:44 PM
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If you were able to stop the leak by cleaning the carb (no parts replacement) and it is now doing it again, you are probably suffering from more junk in the gas tank...I'll return to that.

1 - To remove the screws with buggered heads, your best bet is probably a small set of locking pliers. Think I used needle-nose but don't recall for sure. Just attack the screw heads from the side to break them free. If there is any of the slot left, you might be able to get them out with an impact screwdriver but the pliers should do it. If not, AZ08Grizz's rotary tool idea might be required...just be carful.

2 - I think that the screws are 4mm .7 pitch X 6mm but, I would take one with you to the hardware store to compare side by side with a potential replacement. I was able to find black oxide coated steel replacements at my local Ace Hardware store. Stainless would be better but can be extremely difficult to find except online...and kinda tough there. Hopefully, someone will chime in with a good spot to get SS screws online (I'd like to know too). As AZ08Grizz said, you will want to get socket head screws (either Allan or Torx). If you go with steel, give them a blast of paint to keep them from rusting. I clear-coated my entire carb and just hit the screws at the same time.

Getting the crap out of the tank: Remove the tank cover plastic to access the tank mounting bolts. Shut-off the gas at the valve. Remove the valve knob (phillips head screw at the bottom of the well in the center). Remove the line from the shut-off valve to the carb. Remove the tank. drain the tank into something to hold the fuel. Remove the valve housing from the bottom of the tank and clean it with carb cleaner. You will prob want to disassemble the valve to clean it out but be careful - it contains a wave-washer spring that is easy to loose. Pour some clean gas into the tank, swish it around and then dump it out (note that there is a plastic insert at the top of the tank designed to reduce splashing and this can get in the way when dumping...it can be removed by pulling it up but be careful not to get it cocked too far sideways so you don't distort it or break it.). Do the swish-dump several times to get any sediment/junk out of the tank. When putting it all back together, add a clear plastic in-line filter between the valve and the carb. I will find a pic of one here in a minute.
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Mine: '02 660 now in custom Hammered Copper paint
Mods: Custom air box mod for big-o' clamp-on K&N, Dial-A-Jet, 26" BH 2.0's on ITP SS 106's, SuperTrapp IDSX exhaust, Maier fender flares, black Ricochet skids. Remote res. Works A-T Steelers shocks on all 4.
Hers: '04 660 LE (Ruby red)
Mods: same A/F mod, 1.5" billet spacers with BH 2.0's on stock wheels, Yami aluminum skids.
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:48 PM
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These filters often go under the guise of "Universal" in-line fuel filters.

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Mine: '02 660 now in custom Hammered Copper paint
Mods: Custom air box mod for big-o' clamp-on K&N, Dial-A-Jet, 26" BH 2.0's on ITP SS 106's, SuperTrapp IDSX exhaust, Maier fender flares, black Ricochet skids. Remote res. Works A-T Steelers shocks on all 4.
Hers: '04 660 LE (Ruby red)
Mods: same A/F mod, 1.5" billet spacers with BH 2.0's on stock wheels, Yami aluminum skids.
MY GARAGE

That which doesn't kill you, leaves scars to remind you not to do it again
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» Hot Topics
686 bbk - (410 replies)
What hauls your Grizz's? Show us your trailer puller - (262 replies)
Hey everyone, and welcome. - (48 replies)
tops out at 42mph - (11 replies)
06 front drive shaft flange coupler - (5 replies)

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