Valve adjustment on an '03 Grizzly 660 - Grizzly Riders - Yamaha Grizzly ATV Forum

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Valve adjustment on an '03 Grizzly 660

I am going to tackle adjusting the valves on my '03 Grizzly 660, as a possible fix for the sputter/backfire through carb/cold start issues that I have been experiencing for quite a while.

It is overdue for the adjustment anyway, & who knows, I might just get lucky & solve my other issues during the process. I don't have the shop manual, but have read online how to do it.

Would you guys say this is a good tutorial to follow? I h ave read on other sites where the adjustment lock nut is a square head that is hard to get to?

Thanks for any tips that you may have!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 06:42 PM
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The evel one

Basically follow the instructions. I set mine to the loose side of the spec as they tend to tighten over time. The machined surface on the head is as sharp as Daniel Boone's Bowie Knife. You'll have your fingers in there so be advised. A valve adjustment and a GOOD cleaning of the carb jets should make your Grizz purr........

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 09:57 PM
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not sure why the removed the front tires but, oh well. otherwise the directions seem pretty good. the worst part is stripping the bike down to get too the valves, but this is a great opportunity to clean out the radiator and add dielectric grease to any electrical connectors.
one word of caution, unlike the rest of the world, Yamaha does NOT make the connectors so that they only plug into the correct corresponding connector. AND the colors on one side of the connector are NOT necessarily the same on the other side of the connector. so, mark them as you take them apart.

instead of the special wrench for holding the square head of the adjuster, i just used a small cresson wrench with no problems.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 10:26 PM
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The evel one

Mercedes Benz does the same thing to thier connections. About six months ago I plugged the right front turn signal into the windshield washer and visa -versa. When i checked the signal for operation the damn washer would squirt when the signal should flash. On a whim I hit the washer and the signal flashed. I could hardly believe they used the same connector for both and the pigtails were in the same harness and same length. Maybe Yamaha folled M-B lead.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 12:46 AM
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For the intake i removed the whole tank set up.

For the exhaust all i did was remove the wheel's, and hooked the winch to a hook i have in the roof and lifted up the front end so the valves are head hight. I did use a little mechanics mirror to see in while pushing the feeler gauge in.
To hold the valves, a Robertson screw head fits perfectly. Just DONT DROP IT INSIDE. Next time i have the welder going im going to weld a little handle onto one so i dont have to try to use vise grips to hold it.
I did have a extra set of hands for the exhaust to hold the wrench while tightening.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the tips, great stuff. As far as setting them a bit loose, maybe just an extra thousandth or maybe two?
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 10:05 AM
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I have heard of guys setting valves loose before, im pretty green on valve work so im not going to comment on what i think, but i know when i check mine the intake were more towards the upper end of the limit, but still well within spec so i left them.

The exhaust were like 2 thou bigger/looser out of the upper spec. I set the exhaust to the lower end of spec. So mine got looser, i could even hear them ticking.
So from my grizzly experience my exhaust got looser, and the intake are very slowly getting looser.
(thats with about 2400km on it)

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 11:08 AM
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Here is a link to a Yamaha 660 service manual if that helps.
http://www.moddedraptor.com/library/...E%20MANUAL.pdf

I like to do a mid adjustment on valves as the power does not seem to fade as fast that way. (adjustment seem to last longer)

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 11:45 AM
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The evel one

Valve clearance {cold} INTAKE 0.10-0.15mm, 0.0039-0.0059in. EXHAUST{cold} 0.15-0.20mm, 0.0059-0.0079in. This has been a past subject of great debate. I'd set as close to the middle of this range as possible. I have always found mine to be on the loose side when adjusting. This has been on various engines, the Grizzz was actually close to middle spec and I left them there. I have on occasion found one that tightened but I'll have to say for the most part they tend to loosen. Maybe due to my riding style. I posted once saying they loosened instead of tightening and heard a ton of stuff about it. I reasearched and found the exhaust does tend to tighten. I'd go dead middle make sure you tighten well and recheck after tightening. Not a major job but a pain to gain access. Likely with the running condition you indicated a good carb cleaning would be very wise while you are in there.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 03:45 PM
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A Robertson head screw to hold the valve stem... I think that's a real winner Rob!

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